Trip to Tshamdra Goenpa
“Kuzu zangpo, this is English Service of BBS.
First the headlines.
- Road to Tshamdra Goenpa under Chukha Dzongkhag is ……………..”
Instantaneously vivid picture of Dasho Lungten advocating people of Paro flared up in my mind, “one of the most unique traditions of our country, chipdrel originated from Tshamdra Goenpa. Lam Ngawang Duba sent one of his disciples to buy a box of tea leaves from Paro tshondue……….”
Meanwhile my cell phone danced to a beautiful Bhutanese tune ♫♫♫Gangkar jomolhari...♫♫♫ oops! what a disturbance. It was my friend Sonam calling me “hello Yeshey this time let us go to a sacred place where we have never been, Tshamdra Goenpa”. I felt it was more of destiny than a mere coincidence.
It was 9:30am when we started our journey in an old car of one of my friends which demanded check-up after few minutes. After changing Berol, we reached the junction to start our real sweating journey. Our guide, so called Ap Zogo (carpenter), cousin of my friend Sonam was patiently waiting for us.
By 1:15pm, we started climbing almost 70 degree landscape. It was tiring journey and I was about to rest on a flat rock not caring the print on it. Suddenly Ap Zogo muttered “this is the false zhabje (imprint) of Je Yonten Thaye carved by peoples of this community as they had no devotion for him. They wanted to create rumors that lama is prophesized to leave that community”. It was a clear zhabje but facing down.
After successfully slurping seven bottles of mineral water, we reached our destination by 5:00pm. Lopen Pema, the senior most disciple of Lam Domchung, present lam of Goenpa greeted us with a searing cup of suja. Offering us a bangchu of zaw, Lopen Pema began “This lhakhang is said to have been built by revered Lam Ngawang Dorji around 13th century. Later his nephew Lam Ngawang Duba extended it with three stories.”
Majestic Toenpa takes the centre place in the ground floor which is said to have three feet statue of Je Yonten Thaye at its heart. “Actually disciples of Lam wanted to have sculptured statue of Lama himself” but before Lopen Pema could complete, one of my friend interrupted, “Why didn’t that happen la? Lopen answered with a heavy tone “Lama knew that people of that community had no faith in him”.
Lopen began to unlock a large wooden box which contained a steel box with numerous locks. “This is our nangten, muti choegho (pearl gown) of Guru Rinpoche”, Lopen began unfolding it. I couldn’t believe my eyes and questioned myself; am I that fortunate enough to be blessed by such divine sight? Tears of devotion glistened in my eyes. For a while I felt I was in heaven. Mutichoe gho is beautifully embroidered with designs of silk and pearl. Designs of eight lucky signs are bordered by pentsali designs of Vajra guru (mantra of Guru himself). Despite the colour being faded, it looked very beautiful and sacred.
In one corner, beautiful drums painted with gold were staked one upon another. Before my scrutiny, Lopen Pema emphasized “these are miracle products as thousand drums were carved form a single tree”. It is said that great virtue would be accumulated by single beat of that drum. Kajur (Sanskrit), which is said to be brought from India ornaments the ground floor.
After offering butter lamps we climbed the chilled stone steps of Neten chudrug lhakhang. The statues looked gracious but the faint gold faint seems to have forgotten to glitter. Lopen with hands folded said “this sacred antiques of neten chudrug(16 Arhats) are said to have been sculptured by Lam Gyelwai Shacha, the founder of Phajoding Goenpa”. The statues are so beautifully sculptured but seems to ask us to give a new look. Then we promised to offer the original gold to all sixteen Arhats.
Kudung lhakhang of Lam Ngawang Duba is beautifully decorated with original paintings by Lama himself. At the corner, was an enormous flat stone and before I could ask anything, Lopen started “actually Lama wanted to carve secrets of his heart on this stone but broke. Therefore lama sewed up the stone”. Magnificent Guru, said to be the original masterpiece of lam Ngawang Duba with his eight manifestations graced the top floor of the lhakhang.
The darkness has taken its turn as usual. It was 6:30pm when Lopen served us a hot cup of tea. Climbing down the dark hill took almost two hours. Our car has tolerantly waited in the cold for us by the road side. On the way my friend played a hearty song of Kelly Clarkson which was my favourite number.
Reaching home my mom prepared me a steaming cup of hard coffee. Over that cup of coffee I began pondering about offering the gold. Original gold…sixteen Arhats…three months…it was consuming me with just 100/- balance of my first salary. In a jiffy my cell phone was beeping ♫♫♫tring tring♫♫♫, it was an SMS from my friend Sonam “hey man tired ena? Zheyser phebey gasho hangten aley ya? Letz ask 4 contributns frm our nea n dea 1s”.
It was a brilliant idea as all of us would get opportunity to do something good. We are waiting for the opportunity to do something good and some where someone is waiting to be done. Life is too short and death waves its hand before something good is done. Therefore I would say that my friends are fortunate enough to be able to make contributions.
The contributions till date are-
1) Sonam Tshering - 501/-
2) Tshering Wangda - 100/-
3) Sonam Dorji - 100/-
4) Dema Choki – 121/-
5) Janchu Dorji – 105/-
6) Damcho Wangmo – 105/-
7) Ugyen Thinley – 105/-
8) Kanjur Wangmo – 101/-
9) Sonam Wangchuk – 107/-
10) Dhan Raj Tamang – 55/-
11) Jigme – 101/-
12) Tendrel Gyeltshen – 101/-
13) Nima Om – 100/-
Thanking you
